Mercado 22 de enero

The Mercado 22 de enero is the neighborhood market for the colonia Popular Santa Teresa in Tlalpan.

It’s well known for having been settled only since about 1970. Neighbors came from nearly all parts of Mexico to settle here. And services, with some interruptions, followed only thereafter. Today, it’s regular streets all bear names from the Maya language. But it’s a tiny neighborhood.

In amongst the far wealthier, sometimes opulant, Pedregal de Padierna neighborhoods, Santa Teresa is much more people- rather than car-oriented. Brick and block construction should indicate that most of the neighborhood was built bit by bit by the people themselves. It’s what Mexican urbanists refer to as autoconstucción.

The market building is the largest in the area. Acting as a neighborhood center and information clearinghouse, it’s the site of health checkups as well fairs and events for kids.

For international visitors, it’s also a feast for the senses.  Though the market is still often left out from City economic surveys, it’s a wonderful place to visit. Amongst the vendors, a good handful are preparing food for lunch. And diners end up getting better food, practically fresh from the farm. There are all manner of other whimsies, but for travelers bent on street tacos and salsas, regular comida corrida should be a welcome relief.

• We put together some tips on eating at Fondas and similar smaller less formal establishments.