Mercado Olivar del Conde

The Mercado Olivar del Conde is the center of the neighborhood of the same name. Just west of Mixcoac, it’s one of the first ruddy, and nearly mountainous neighborhoods of Álvaro Obregón. This is where Álvaro Obregón stops looking like the center city, and takes on the crooked characteristics of western hills and valleys.

The neighborhood name hearkens all the way back to a Count, Juan Gutiérrez Altamirano, a cousin of Hernán Cortés. He was granted, in 1528, the larger property to develop vineyards and arbors. Among these was an olive grove. Another estate took over the property in 1616 and the y retained the name Olivar del Conde, (Olive Grove of the Count). It was largely a rural mining community straight through to the mid-20th century.

The rural sand and gravel mining always lent the neighborhood an air of mystery, if not outright intrigue. There are tales as late as the 1960s of the Count still visiting his olive groves on horseback, and visible only in the palest of moonlight.

In the center of it all, the Mercado Olivar del Conde is a wildly popular neighborhood center. For commerce and gossip, it’s great. But for prepared food and lunch, there’s simply no better option. It’s a bit more than a 45-minute walk from Metros Barranca del Muerto or Mixcoac. A taxi will do the trip in a quarter of an hour. In any case, when you get here you’re in for a treat.

Hours: Daily 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.