San Francisco Tlalnepantla, Xochimilco

San Francisco Tlalnepantla is a remarkable town in the highlands of Xochimilco in Mexico City’s south. Together with its communal farmlands, the community takes up most of the ventral/pelvic “fin” jutting southward from Xochimilco proper (shown at right).

As a mountain town, it shares more history and culture with neighboring Milpa Alta (east) and Tlalpan (west). Both have similar small towns clinging to the sides of volcanos. In San Francisco’s case, it’s closest to the Cerro Tzompolli, to the town’s east. But San Francisco also borders San Miguel Topilejo, Tlalpan, to the town’s immediate west. It’s a wonderful rustic and often windswept area.

Tlalnepantla, here and in the much better-known municipality of Mexico State, means simply “the lands in the middle” or the “midlands.” In Xochimilco, the people were renowned woodcutters and carpenters. Much of the colonial-era town was dedicated to the raising of sheep. Here, the Franciscans were visiting regularly in the 17th century. By that time, they had a church, sacristy, and patio areas surrounding the minor hospice. The temple was entirely rebuilt in 1799 and later remodeled again in 1980.

In the early 20th century, the town was very much a Zapatista stronghold. But today people still visit to stroll the area of the atrium and the surrounding streets. Views are magnificent from much of the town, and of course, the food is unforgettable too.