Mercado Leandro Valle, Agrícola Oriental

The Mercado Leandro Valle is one of the main markets in the giant eastern Iztacalco neighborhood of Agrícola Oriental. Opened in 1969, it’s spent better than 54 years as a commercial center, and even as something of a community center. The market is named for Reform-Era general and Mexico City native, Leandro Valle.

• Leandro Valle Martínez (1833–1861) was a liberal general and ally of Benito Juárez during the Reform War of the mid-19th century. Born in Mexico City, he entered the Colegio Militar in 1844. He graduated as a second lieutenant at the age of 14, just three years later. He’s especially well-remembered for his performance during the battles of Guadalajara, Silao, and San Miguel Calpulalpan. At just 26, he was promoted to the rank of general, and in 1861 Juárez appointed him general commander of the Federal District (Mexico City). General Leandro Valle was then captured during a battle near Monte de las Cruces, today the La Marquesa Park. It had been the site of 1810 during the War for Mexican Independence. He was executed under orders from Maximiliano loyalist general Leonardo Márquez.

Today the market serves things on a giant scale. Trucks arrive daily from the Centro de Abastos. Some arrive from even further afield. But among all the vendors of fruit and butcher items, a good number prepare cooked meals too.

That makes it an excellent spot for lunch. This is especially true for international travelers recovering from too much street food, or worse, airport food. Look for one of the couple of Comida Corrida lunch counters or fondas. It’s a spectualar place to eat, and you’re supporting small businesses and even local farmers.