Mercado El Reloj

The Mercado El Reloj is the beloved central public market in Colonia El Reloj in Coyoacán. The neighborhood is sandwiched between two original settlements. To the north is San Pablo Tepetlapa with crooked streets, and a truly unruly landscape. To the south, more orderly Santa Úrsula Coapa is an ancient town. The neighborhood is generally said to have grown up on agricultural land belonging to Santa Úrsula.

The market, though, stands precisely on the border between the two halves of the neighborhood. To the north, it’s still remarkably unplanned, and even crooked.

Some 90 merchants celebrate the market’s 1962 opening ever year. They’re joined by a medley of neighborhood residents and usually some mariachis too, every February. The market is probably most famous for the Oaxacan restaurant on the corner. It was one of the earliest Oaxacan restaurants in the City, long before it was trendy. The original owner, Doña Tila, began as a street vendor on the corner of the Calzada de Tlalpan in 1951. Years later, she was encouraged to set up shop in the market long before Oaxacan food became world famous.

Today, inside the market, there is competition from all over. Among all the vendors, ready-made food is available for sit-down lunches. The neighborhood wouldn’t have it any other way.

Hours: Weekdays 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., weekends, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.